This post is for my sake alone. Nobody should read it unless they really want to. This started as an article about how I became a game designer, but I quickly realized that my story had more to do with my upbringing and youth than it did with gaming. I had almost no contact with the actual gaming hobby until I was already well versed in game design. My design philosophy is derived almost entirely from life experience, not actual knowledge of games, and this is why I chafe at many of the assertions of professionals, like Gygax, Mentzer, Perkins, & etc. I am from a different tradition entirely.
So, lots of other gamers and game designers have this big sweeping narrative of their first game and how it changed their life. A lot of these stories show off how old-school they are as well, like it's some kind of contest for street cred. I aim to tell a very different story: an honest one that revels in the ugliness of sincerity. It is long, and gaming did play a role in changing my Life, but most of how I became a game designer is awkwardness, violence, and accident.
When I was a little boy, I was isolated. It was nobody's fault but my own. I don't know what the hell was wrong with me, I was just deeply antisocial for a very long time. I absorbed nothing from the surrounding culture. I never put 2 and 2 together. I didn't know any popular music or TV shows. My knowledge of games was limited to the card games my parents played and the few board games in the house. (Actually, even that was dodgy. I didn't learn chess until I was in my 20s) I knew nothing of sports, and hand games looked like some sort of arcane ritual. I was... strange. I didn't understand social cues, so I believed everyone could read each other's minds and I was the only person who lacked this ability. (This led to me believing everyone was actually omniscient and shared a single mind, forcing me to "cleanse my thoughts" fearing the world might discover some weakness or error in my beliefs. I worked very hard to not think in words.) When other kids tried to play with me, I didn't know what they were talking about, so I assumed they were attacking me. (I even attempted to strangle one of these kids, believing myself to be in real danger) Looking back, I see an alien of a child unlike any person I've ever met, and I sometimes wonder why I was like that, and how I managed to escape from it. It's like I turned 13 and spontaneously became a different person.
Anyways, I had a few brushes with video games. The first video game I ever played was a mouse in a maze game on old black-and-green apple computers. In grade 1, while we were walking in single file between classes, I accidentally switched to a second grade class, and spent an hour doing one of the most wonderful classroom lessons ever: learning how to use a computer. When I was found, I was told computers is a second grade class. They sold all of the computers before I got to second grade and never bought new ones while I was there.
My favorite handheld game got stolen and eventually returned by some unknown person, but began to malfunction after a few more months. I wish I could play it again. My second favorite handheld game was taken at an airport because it (EXTREMELY VAGUELY) looked like a gun.
My mom had a friend nearby, and she used to take me and my siblings to her house when they visited each other. They had a genesis. Sonic the Hedgehog was amazing and I loved it... I never beat the first stage until I was maybe 15 or so. They also had Mortal Kombat (I was awful at it) and a hockey game that made no sense. (I went back and played it again when I was older- it really makes no sense at all.) They also had a NES, but it hardly ever worked, and the games for it were ugly and cryptic. It always confused me how Nintendo could get the light gun to work 100% of the time, but couldn't get the cartridge reader up to even 50% success rate.
Later, my buddy Eaan had an original playstation. I didn't even know computers could do 3d graphics when I first saw it. He had FFVII. I was so shocked by it, I basically forgot about the friend I was visiting. More striking to me at the time than how enchanting the game machine was, is how my friend found it to be so mundane. He looked at me like I was some ignorant peasant who lived under a rock. (I basically was, but I didn't know it at the time.) He owned a personal computer and had been playing video games for years at this point. My knowledge of video games peaked with 2d things at school, like Math Blaster and Lemmings. Through him, I first heard of Dungeons & Dragons. He played some computer games based on it. I'm not sure if he had actually played D&D yet at that point. I should ask him some time.
Then my family bought a computer. I remember sitting in front of it with my brother and sister just watching screen savers. For hours on end. We were stunned that one of these things was in our home and we could do whatever we want with it.
In the background, behind all of these minor brushes with actual games, I was pretty bored. I had few friends, because I had nothing in common with the human race, and I couldn't really spend much time with those few friends. I couldn't ride a bike, and I couldn't remember the layout of my hometown to walk much farther than the path between school and home. (Those who know me: you think my memory is bad now? Imagine a kid who turns a corner in a linear hallway and forgets what building he's in. I spent a lot of time wandering lost in the fog of my own absent-mindedness. You probably remember this, Nick.) When I went to a farther-away school, I was dependent upon the bus to get me close enough to find my way home. So I mostly stayed inside and played with my siblings or by myself. My siblings mostly made me angry, and honestly I remember almost all of my time growing up with them as a never ending fight. We got into some pretty bad scraps, especially as we got bigger. So I spent almost all of my time alone. Reality sucked, and I knew it, so I would escape into fantasy. I figured, as long as I don't think anything real, and occupy my mind with fantasy, nobody will be able to telepathically intuit anything to criticize about me.
As I got older, I started to make up rules to my imagined games. I didn't know It, but I was making actual games. Some of them were even role playing games! I had rules for comparing the physical capabilities of characters, and I had figured out how to gauge powers against one another and limit power access to characters to keep them balanced- all by intuition, and mostly without any knowledge of RPGs. I had a friend who used to walk home on the same path as me, and we used to play pretend together. I tested my ideas on him, and we would play imaginary duels with characters we made up on the spot on the way home. He sometimes made his own rules, and I usually adopted them into our later games. We were basically making a LARP. We were kindred spirits. And neither of us knew each other's name. I don't think anyone ever knew about our friendship. We spent all of our time together in the woods. One day, he moved away. I never saw him again. I continued to walk that path every single day until I graduated, with the faintest hope that I might see him again. I still remember the lessons he taught me about game design on the occasions where he won the duel.
Around this time, before I graduated of course, I moved to a new school and computers suddenly fucking exploded. My family got dialup, and school computers were constantly online. Every grade had mandatory computer classes. (Though the instructors still seemed utterly clueless as to what to do with this class.) I remember that teacher lost his job because he molested some girl. The thought that I was so close to someone so sinister for years on end is upsetting. My family got a PlayStation due to my pestering. This went along with my gameboy from a few years before.
I was still a broken little child though. Whenever I felt I had failed somehow, I would punish myself, typically by pounding my head against a hard surface. Apparently my teachers felt that was pretty normal because nobody ever said anything, and I was never taken to a councillor. I probably should have been. I broke my gameboy by bashing my head against it until the screen broke when I lost at the end of the last level of a Mario game.
The PlayStation opened my eyes to how the world actually was, at least in the realm of gaming. I was finally able to play more than a couple of hours into a game. With all the time in the world, I could play games until I gained skill and completed them. With the internet, I was able to connect with all kinds of information about gaming. A world of knowledge flooded toward me... and I squandered it. I made the most minimal use of the internet possible: pornography and cheat codes.
Oh, yeah, I started looking at porn when I was really, really little. Started swearing pretty young too. I didn't hide either of these things at all, and still nobody saw anything wrong with me. Yup. Just another typical antisocial, self-destructive, delusional, physically violent, verbally abusive, perverted 10 year old. Never you mind me throwing furniture and books, openly wishing death upon my peers, and insulting instructors- everything's fine!
It wasn't until high school that I would finally play actual D&D. At this point, I kind of thought D&D was some sort of weird gamer subculture based on some old games that had loose connections, like the Final Fantasy series. I had no idea RPGs predated computers, I had never seen polyhedral dice, and "let's pretend" was considered so childish, I had been abandoned as the only person I knew who still did that. I had some inclination that there were these weird fantasy board games with funny dice, thanks to select appearances of D&D style games in Dexter's Laboratory and Disney's Recess, but I didn't know they were references to D&D, I thought they were just exaggerated fictional games. Then, during a class at school, a new friend of mine asked if I wanted to play D&D. I had no idea what he was talking about, but I wanted to impress him (I hadn't made new friends in YEARS) so I pretended to be on the level and said yes.
What followed was not really D&D. None of us owned the corebooks. My friend had read the PHB and DMG for second edition, but they belonged to someone else he knew, so we had no reference material whatsoever. The whole game was his memory. We also had no dice. There were no gaming stores in Sylvan Lake, (there still aren't, actually) and the half-hour drive to Red Deer was apparently such a burden to my parents that they avoided it like the plague. (I now realize that the reason is likely the gas expense of my father's work commute to Red Deer. Why make a separate trip out with the kids, when the father can just make any necessary stops before he comes home from work?) So instead of dice, we tore up bits of paper, numbered them 1-20, and put them in my buddy's fedora. (I was weird, but this kid wore a full suit, hat, and tie every day. He outclassed me in weirdness every way I can think of.) The game we played was, essentially, the same game I had played with that friend in the forest years before, and the same game I played with my fictional characters on paper at home- but with dice as a neutral arbitrator, rather than some vague rule about arbitrarily inverting a guaranteed success or failure any given number of actions. It was awesome. We fought a flock of giant crows that assaulted us as we escaped a dungeon, and I was an elf, and I was finally playing the game I loved with people who understood again.
Then I asked him more details about D&D and he leveled with me: he couldn't remember the rules very well, so he basically just made it all up as he went! I asked him if I could take his ideas and make my own game, and he said he didn't care.
I've been engaged in nonstop game design ever since. The rest of my life is basically just logistics to me. Without something to be passionate about, I'd probably have died at age 16 when I became aware of the concept of suicide. Life offers little of value to me, even to this day. Things people are deeply passionate about rank as nearly irrelevant in my mind. The only reason I am here at all, the only reason I am motivated to have a life of any sort, is because I was able to find a few people who I could understand and who understood me back.
My first design took the d20 roll-under check and turned it into the core mechanic. (I wouldn't hear that term until 3rd edition came out, but that's what it was) Then I swapped the d20 for d10s because they look cool and I wanted simpler numbers. Then I doubled the ability scores and switched spellcasting to a FF style MP system. Things get blurry after that, there were just so many revisions.
My first ever game was run for a friend of mine with Tourettes syndrome. I bought a video game walkthrough that I thought sounded cool, and had halfways detailed explanation of the underlying math. Then I improvised dice mechanics to emulate the video game and took him through the whole story. The game was called Orphen, in case you're interested- and yeah, I really did find a way to turn that into a game using lined paper and a box full of d6s. I wish I'd taken notes so I could remember how, because looking back, I have no idea, and I doubt I could replicate it.
By the time that campaign had run its course, my pet project was playable, and I'd made enough setting material to run a session. I gathered some friends- different ones than those who'd introduced me to RPGs, I didn't want to embarrass myself -and ran a game. At this time, I had not played any sandbox games, and I wanted to push my system to its limits, so I decided it would be brilliant to just dump them in the environment and let them have at it. One started the first international bar chain the world had ever seen. Another started his career as a hero, but accidentally became a vampire's slave- and then betrayed his master, stealing his power to become an elder vampire, and slowly began to take over the world. A third became the most intrepid explorer the world had ever seen, singlehandedly sailing a home-built sea dinghy through a hurricane to a distant continent nobody had ever seen, where the entire ecosystem was a self-sustaining cycle of predation.
By now, I'd realized that negative logic, (roll under checks, negative bonuses, subtractive penalties, etc.) was counterintuitive and took longer for players to compute, so I reworked all of the math to function in positive values only.
I took that world as it was back to my other friend, and he and his brother gave it a shot. He set loose an ancient weapon possessed by a demon in return for a position of power in its service. Though evil, the demon repaid him in spades for his loyalty. He eventually became a dragon-riding arch-lich commanding armies of thousands of undead in the name of Gaullock the Ancient Death. His brother was playing a heroic-to-the-core good guy though, and he wasn't having it. He consulted the gods for a solution and chose to summon a rival demon. Posing as its mortal general, he redirected the undead armies from invasion to fight against the rival demon's golem army. At the climactic war scene, he tricked the two demons into direct conflict with one another and sealed the two of them away in the same artifact that had once held only one of them! After this, the two characters confronted one another atop Gaullock's crumbling tower. They had opted to have their characters be brothers as well, and they played one of the most heartbreaking scenes I've ever seen- without any input from me. The two duelled, but each refused to deal lethal damage with their attacks. They fought and argued until the tower collapsed with them inside it, each trying desperately to sway the other to see things their way so they could escape alive together. At the end of the campaign, I hadn't added any input for over two hours. I described the fall of the demons, and started the countdown to the tower's fall, then watched this story unfold before me until I was forced to bring it to an end. I've never seen anything like it since.
Currently, that system has been split into a dozen different versions based on similar principals. They all are pretty much finished and functional, but I can't decide which one I like most. Because I keep flipflopping between systems, I can't commit to making detailed setting content for fear that my time will be wasted.
Now, it might sound like I was a bit of a Monty Haul, but keep in mind, this was all test-play. In order to test as much of the system as possible, I massively accelerated the passage of time so players could see the fruits of their labor within a single session, and so that I could test aspects of every level of play every time I played.
My first game of actual by-the-books D&D was 2nd edition under a new DM who definitely thought his purpose was to kill the players as quickly, gruesomely, and pitifully as possible. One player slipped and drowned crossing an ankle-deep stream. My character died of some disease due to wearing plate mail in cold rain. We never even got to the adventure. We barely got out of town alive. I walked out. Later at that same party, after the session was over, I apologized (rudely) and asked to read the books again. I was disappointed. THIS tangled morass of arbitrary, internally inconsistent, dysfunctional GARBAGE was Dungeons & Dragons?! And the second edition of its advanced version as well?! The game I'd made was already faster, smoother, tighter, and more comprehensive. I got an ego and assumed I was just smarter than Gygax. As it turns out, I am only smarter than corporate bureaucracy- and so is just about everyone else.
Then a bunch of teenage drama BS happened. Five years worth of it, all crammed into 8 months. Tried to murder a friend, stole another friend's girlfriend, had that girlfriend stolen from me, got laid for the first time, then I went to college for the fine arts and moved out of my parents house. Tried drugs for the first time. (Note: acid is not a good choice for a first time trial.)
In college, I reconnected with Eaan, and he was definitely playing RPGs now. He was also a hobbyist game designer, and had created a 3.5e inspired PvP tactical tabletop game called SQUIGL. I should feature his game here simetime. It's freaking fantastic fun. I played 3.5e D&D under him as DM for 2 campaigns, one a standard fantasy and the other a planescape adventure generated entirely at random by a program he wrote for Inspiration Pad Pro. Then we switched to Mutants & Masterminds. In between campaigns, we tested SQUIGL. He introduced me to Forge Theory, (Though he admitted that I read it in far greater detail than he ever did.) around the same time that I was learning aesthetic theory, moral philosophy, and Scott McCloud's comics theory. I came to the conclusion that these theories, as well as what little I learned of music theory, were compatible. I now believe very strongly that games are simply another aspect of aesthetic theory, and aesthetic theory itself is merely a a small portion of an as-yet-undefined unified theory of humanity. I believe games are one of the highest forms of art, and that games can not only change the world- they have the potential to save the world.
Then I graduated and started falling into a bit of a depression again. Started cutting myself off from friends.
Then I met the woman of my dreams. Five years down the line, I'm married, in my own house, and have a professional career in a technical industry. I am happy. I have comfort and security- more than I've ever had before. I lost a couple of friends in the shuffle. (Sorry about the comic, damage deposit, and rent, Rez; I'd go back and do it all different if only I could. I miss you dearly, Xaos, rest in peace or come home soon. Shawn, grow up and call me back, I'd like to share a beer some time, and I don't give a damn about your debt any more! Cam, it doesn't matter what gender you want to be if you're still a dickhead and a pussy either way.) Overall though, I can't complain too much.
Wednesday, November 29, 2017
Tuesday, November 14, 2017
NotCoup: A Generic French-Suit Bluffing Card Game
Coup is a card game that is made and sold by an indie games company. Well, actually, they just make specialized cards with fancy thematic card art to play the game with. However, because those rules are "attached" to the cards in copyright, they have effectively usurped copyright law to claim ownership of the idea of the game. I'm not cool with that, because it's technically not legal. You cannot copyright an idea, only the form it takes. (I am aware that most courts recognize coordinated behavior and performances as a "form". I do not accept this recognition, as it implies all of human behavior could potentially be copyrighted in one way or another at some point.) So, in the name of vigilante justice, I am presenting to the public domain: NotCoup, a generic bluffing game for a standard pack of french-suited cards. This game requires no purchase nor licensing, as it has been released directly to the public domain. It does not represent any particular fictional setting or situation, and has nothing to do with The Dystopian Universe line of games by Indie Boards and Cards. Please do not ever give that company or its employees any money or further recognition. The game also features a different deck composition of 18, rather than 15 cards, which allows it to support up to 6 players. Now, on to the game:
NotCoup is a card game for 2-6 players.
NotCoup is a bluffing game, a variant of Coup, with the objective of being the last player with any cards in their hand.
First, remove all but the following cards from your deck:
King
Queen
Jack
Ace
Joker
This should leave a deck of 18 cards: 4 faces of each suit and 2 Jokers.
Throw all of the remaining cards into a heap, face-up, in the middle of the table. These will be used as score counters, representing how many points each player has.
Shuffle the remaining deck, and deal 2 cards to each player. Each player takes 2 points from the pile.
Set the remaining deck aside to be used as stock.
Decide amongst yourselves who goes first. Play proceeds clockwise.
On a player's turn they can either take a game action, or claim a card is in their hand and take a card action.
Certain actions can be countered if a player claims they have a particular card in their hand.
Any time a player claims they have a card, anyone at the table can call shenanigans on them. If a player is challenged on their claim, they have 2 options:
1. Reveal the card they claimed in their hand, return it to the deck and draw a replacement, and carry out their declared action. The challenger fails the challenge.
2. Admit they lied and do not have that card. They fail the challenge.
Whoever fails a challenge must permanently reveal a card from their hand by discarding it face-up on the table in front of them. A discarded card obviously is no longer usable in play. So, while you can still claim your other card is the same type, you can't use your discarded card to defend that claim.
Now, let's get to those game actions! Remember: on your turn, you can ony take 1 action.
Income: This action cannot be countered. Take 1 point.
More Income: This action can be countered by the King. Take 2 points.
F.U.: This action cannot be countered. Pay 7 points to the pile. Target player must discard a card from their hand face-up on the table in front of them. If you have 10 or more points when taking an action, you MUST take this action on your turn. If you have a problem with cussing, rename this action to "Discard".
Now for the card actions. Remember, you can take any 1 action you want, even if you don't have that card- but declaring a card action is also claiming to have that card.
King: Take 3 points. Counters More Income.
Queen: Counters Joker.
Jack: Take 2 points from another player. Counters Jack.
Ace: Draw 2 cards. Return 2 cards back to the deck. Counters Jack.
Joker: Pay 3 points to the pile. Choose another player. That player discards a card face-up on the table in front of them.
Obviously, the joker is the most dangerous of the bunch, that's why it has half as many as any other card type. (Rather, that's why it was assigned to the short-counted non-pip-card.)
One last rule: You cannot target yourself with any action which would cause you to take from your own points pile, or to discard your own card. Should be obvious, but some people are clowns.
Once a player has no cards in hand, they are eliminated from play.
So, yeah, that's about it! Winner is the last person holding a card!
Haven't had enough? Here's some variants!
3 or less: If you have 3 or fewer players, and feel that there is too high signal-to-noise to deduce an opponent's hand, you could further remove 1 card of each type except Jokers.
Square Jokers: If you feel the reduced probability of a Joker makes them too random, you can increase their population to match the other cards. You can do this by adding Jokers from another pack, (It's not like you're planning on playing knock euchre any time soon anyways, amirite?) or by reassigning the Joker's card action to a 4-suited card, such as the deuce.
Teams: Each player draws a card from the shuffled points-pile, and places it face-up next to their hand cards. The color of the card denotes your team. Alternatively, players can just decide their teams by picking partners. Players on the same team can't target each other.
Co-op: The players who are on the same team win if all opposing team members are eliminated.
Snake Nest: The players still play to the last man standing. A new game action is added: Switch: Pay 2 points to the pile and force another player to switch teams. (This can be represented by turning your team card sideways.)
Heist: The players choose an action type that costs points to act as the "crime" action. Every time a player pays points for the crime, those points are paid to a separate pile called the bank. A new game action is added: Steal: Take the whole bank unless you have a king. If you take this action and are challenged for ownership of a King, you fail if you have it, and pass if you don't. Some actions pay better than others. For example, if there are no Jokers in play, and the joker action is the crime, then the bank will likely remain empty unless someone bluffs. At the preference of the players, multiple actions can be selected as crimes, allowing the bank to grow faster.
Slow Start: Games going too quickly? Tie an anchor to the players! Everyone starts with 1 point instead of 2. Still too fast? First player starts with 1 point less.
Risky Reward: Challenging an opponent, even if you fail it, earns you 1 point automatically. This gives people even more enticement to make riskier challenges while acting as a boobie-prize when they fail. It also accelerates point movement.
Buyout: A player who loses a challenge may pay 5 points instead of discarding. This gives players more reason to hoard coins, while also making the game draw out longer.
Shuffle Time: If you like the strategy of using the ace to deduce the hands of others by frequently redrawing cards, but dislike the abject risk of doing so by bluff alone, you can add a slower version of that tactic to play. Redraw: Pay 1 point to the pile, draw 1 card from the deck, and return 1 card to the deck. Now you can still do it without bluffing, and you can still do it after getting caught bluffing on ace possession.
Zombies: Instead of being eliminated, a player who has discarded their hand continues to play as a "zombie". Zombies can not use card actions on their turn, but can still use game actions and challenge card actions. The winner is the last non-zombie player.
Transformer: This version of the game features alternate card actions. You can also optionally replace any single card action with one of its equivalents from the following list. The Transformer variant has each player take their first turn to decide which action will be used for 1 card type. Once all types have been decided, play begins. The original forms of each card action remain valid options.
Variant Kings:
Gambler King: Take as many points from the pile as you have already (5 points maximum). If you are successfully challenged, the points taken are given to the challenger.
Reluctant King: Takes 4 points from the pile. Then any other players may also claim King. Once all claims have been made, challenges are resolved for new claimants in clockwise order from you. Then you give 1 credit to each remaining claimant.
Friendly King: Take 3 points from the pile and give 1 point to another player.
Fancy King: Take 1 point from the pile and can then take a different action of your choice. If you have 10 points after taking a coin, you must take the F.U. action as your additional action.
Variant Queens:
Wall Queen: Take 1 point from the pile and then place it in front of you. While that credit is in front of you, you can not be the target of any action other than F.U. You can still spend that point as if it were in your pile.
Alliance Queen: Take 2 points. Place one in front of you and one in front of another player, both sideways. As long as these points are in place, you and that player may not target each other with any action unless you are the final two players. Either player can spend the point as if it were in their pile.
Survivor Queen: When you must discard for any reason other than F.U., and there is at least 1 card in the deck, set this card aside as the lost life and draw 1 card from the deck to your hand. If challenged, the card claimed as the Queen is revealed. You may claim your remaining card is a Queen in response to a failed challenge of your bluffed Queen.
Variant Jacks:
Wild Jack: Take 1 point from each other player.
Friendly Jack: Take up to 3 points from another player, give those points to the player with the fewest points. In the event of a tie for fewest coins, choose 1.
Asshole Jack: Take 2 points, placing one in front of yourself and one on another player's card in play. If a player claims the use of a card with a point on it, they must first give 1 point to you, otherwise they can not use that card. If a card with a point on it is discarded, put both points into your pile.
Graverobber Jack: At the end of any turn on which a player is eliminated, take all their points before they are returned to the pile. If multiple players claim Jack, the points are divided equally amongst those players with any excess going to the treasury.
Variant Aces:
Assface Ace: Take 1 card from the deck and 1 card from another player. Give 1 card to the deck and 1 card to that player.
Expensive Ace: Take 1 card from the deck and looks at it. You may pay 1 point to take an additional card from the deck. You may pay to draw as many times as you want and can afford. Return the number of cards you drew back to the deck.
Rich Ace: Take 1 card from the deck and 1 point from the pile. Return 1 card to the deck.
Super Ace: Pay 1 credit, then take 3 cards from the deck. Return 3 cards to the deck.
Variant Jokers:
Expensive Joker: Pay 4 credits. Target player must discard a card.
Extortion Joker: Target can choose to gives you 2 points or they must discard.
Mega Joker: Pay 5 points, all other players must discard.
Slow Joker: Pay 3 credits. Target takes a point and places it in front of themselves. On their turn, if the point is still there, they must discard and return the point to the pile.
Friendly Joker: Give another player 3 points. That player discards.
Teamwork Joker: Pay 2 points and target another player. If not successfully challenged, then any other player can pay 3 points, and the target discards. If no other player pays, the action fails. Cannot be blocked unless another player pays.
NotCoup is a card game for 2-6 players.
NotCoup is a bluffing game, a variant of Coup, with the objective of being the last player with any cards in their hand.
First, remove all but the following cards from your deck:
King
Queen
Jack
Ace
Joker
This should leave a deck of 18 cards: 4 faces of each suit and 2 Jokers.
Throw all of the remaining cards into a heap, face-up, in the middle of the table. These will be used as score counters, representing how many points each player has.
Shuffle the remaining deck, and deal 2 cards to each player. Each player takes 2 points from the pile.
Set the remaining deck aside to be used as stock.
Decide amongst yourselves who goes first. Play proceeds clockwise.
On a player's turn they can either take a game action, or claim a card is in their hand and take a card action.
Certain actions can be countered if a player claims they have a particular card in their hand.
Any time a player claims they have a card, anyone at the table can call shenanigans on them. If a player is challenged on their claim, they have 2 options:
1. Reveal the card they claimed in their hand, return it to the deck and draw a replacement, and carry out their declared action. The challenger fails the challenge.
2. Admit they lied and do not have that card. They fail the challenge.
Whoever fails a challenge must permanently reveal a card from their hand by discarding it face-up on the table in front of them. A discarded card obviously is no longer usable in play. So, while you can still claim your other card is the same type, you can't use your discarded card to defend that claim.
Now, let's get to those game actions! Remember: on your turn, you can ony take 1 action.
Income: This action cannot be countered. Take 1 point.
More Income: This action can be countered by the King. Take 2 points.
F.U.: This action cannot be countered. Pay 7 points to the pile. Target player must discard a card from their hand face-up on the table in front of them. If you have 10 or more points when taking an action, you MUST take this action on your turn. If you have a problem with cussing, rename this action to "Discard".
Now for the card actions. Remember, you can take any 1 action you want, even if you don't have that card- but declaring a card action is also claiming to have that card.
King: Take 3 points. Counters More Income.
Queen: Counters Joker.
Jack: Take 2 points from another player. Counters Jack.
Ace: Draw 2 cards. Return 2 cards back to the deck. Counters Jack.
Joker: Pay 3 points to the pile. Choose another player. That player discards a card face-up on the table in front of them.
Obviously, the joker is the most dangerous of the bunch, that's why it has half as many as any other card type. (Rather, that's why it was assigned to the short-counted non-pip-card.)
One last rule: You cannot target yourself with any action which would cause you to take from your own points pile, or to discard your own card. Should be obvious, but some people are clowns.
Once a player has no cards in hand, they are eliminated from play.
So, yeah, that's about it! Winner is the last person holding a card!
Haven't had enough? Here's some variants!
3 or less: If you have 3 or fewer players, and feel that there is too high signal-to-noise to deduce an opponent's hand, you could further remove 1 card of each type except Jokers.
Square Jokers: If you feel the reduced probability of a Joker makes them too random, you can increase their population to match the other cards. You can do this by adding Jokers from another pack, (It's not like you're planning on playing knock euchre any time soon anyways, amirite?) or by reassigning the Joker's card action to a 4-suited card, such as the deuce.
Teams: Each player draws a card from the shuffled points-pile, and places it face-up next to their hand cards. The color of the card denotes your team. Alternatively, players can just decide their teams by picking partners. Players on the same team can't target each other.
Co-op: The players who are on the same team win if all opposing team members are eliminated.
Snake Nest: The players still play to the last man standing. A new game action is added: Switch: Pay 2 points to the pile and force another player to switch teams. (This can be represented by turning your team card sideways.)
Heist: The players choose an action type that costs points to act as the "crime" action. Every time a player pays points for the crime, those points are paid to a separate pile called the bank. A new game action is added: Steal: Take the whole bank unless you have a king. If you take this action and are challenged for ownership of a King, you fail if you have it, and pass if you don't. Some actions pay better than others. For example, if there are no Jokers in play, and the joker action is the crime, then the bank will likely remain empty unless someone bluffs. At the preference of the players, multiple actions can be selected as crimes, allowing the bank to grow faster.
Slow Start: Games going too quickly? Tie an anchor to the players! Everyone starts with 1 point instead of 2. Still too fast? First player starts with 1 point less.
Risky Reward: Challenging an opponent, even if you fail it, earns you 1 point automatically. This gives people even more enticement to make riskier challenges while acting as a boobie-prize when they fail. It also accelerates point movement.
Buyout: A player who loses a challenge may pay 5 points instead of discarding. This gives players more reason to hoard coins, while also making the game draw out longer.
Shuffle Time: If you like the strategy of using the ace to deduce the hands of others by frequently redrawing cards, but dislike the abject risk of doing so by bluff alone, you can add a slower version of that tactic to play. Redraw: Pay 1 point to the pile, draw 1 card from the deck, and return 1 card to the deck. Now you can still do it without bluffing, and you can still do it after getting caught bluffing on ace possession.
Zombies: Instead of being eliminated, a player who has discarded their hand continues to play as a "zombie". Zombies can not use card actions on their turn, but can still use game actions and challenge card actions. The winner is the last non-zombie player.
Transformer: This version of the game features alternate card actions. You can also optionally replace any single card action with one of its equivalents from the following list. The Transformer variant has each player take their first turn to decide which action will be used for 1 card type. Once all types have been decided, play begins. The original forms of each card action remain valid options.
Variant Kings:
Gambler King: Take as many points from the pile as you have already (5 points maximum). If you are successfully challenged, the points taken are given to the challenger.
Reluctant King: Takes 4 points from the pile. Then any other players may also claim King. Once all claims have been made, challenges are resolved for new claimants in clockwise order from you. Then you give 1 credit to each remaining claimant.
Friendly King: Take 3 points from the pile and give 1 point to another player.
Fancy King: Take 1 point from the pile and can then take a different action of your choice. If you have 10 points after taking a coin, you must take the F.U. action as your additional action.
Variant Queens:
Wall Queen: Take 1 point from the pile and then place it in front of you. While that credit is in front of you, you can not be the target of any action other than F.U. You can still spend that point as if it were in your pile.
Alliance Queen: Take 2 points. Place one in front of you and one in front of another player, both sideways. As long as these points are in place, you and that player may not target each other with any action unless you are the final two players. Either player can spend the point as if it were in their pile.
Survivor Queen: When you must discard for any reason other than F.U., and there is at least 1 card in the deck, set this card aside as the lost life and draw 1 card from the deck to your hand. If challenged, the card claimed as the Queen is revealed. You may claim your remaining card is a Queen in response to a failed challenge of your bluffed Queen.
Variant Jacks:
Wild Jack: Take 1 point from each other player.
Friendly Jack: Take up to 3 points from another player, give those points to the player with the fewest points. In the event of a tie for fewest coins, choose 1.
Asshole Jack: Take 2 points, placing one in front of yourself and one on another player's card in play. If a player claims the use of a card with a point on it, they must first give 1 point to you, otherwise they can not use that card. If a card with a point on it is discarded, put both points into your pile.
Graverobber Jack: At the end of any turn on which a player is eliminated, take all their points before they are returned to the pile. If multiple players claim Jack, the points are divided equally amongst those players with any excess going to the treasury.
Variant Aces:
Assface Ace: Take 1 card from the deck and 1 card from another player. Give 1 card to the deck and 1 card to that player.
Expensive Ace: Take 1 card from the deck and looks at it. You may pay 1 point to take an additional card from the deck. You may pay to draw as many times as you want and can afford. Return the number of cards you drew back to the deck.
Rich Ace: Take 1 card from the deck and 1 point from the pile. Return 1 card to the deck.
Super Ace: Pay 1 credit, then take 3 cards from the deck. Return 3 cards to the deck.
Variant Jokers:
Expensive Joker: Pay 4 credits. Target player must discard a card.
Extortion Joker: Target can choose to gives you 2 points or they must discard.
Mega Joker: Pay 5 points, all other players must discard.
Slow Joker: Pay 3 credits. Target takes a point and places it in front of themselves. On their turn, if the point is still there, they must discard and return the point to the pile.
Friendly Joker: Give another player 3 points. That player discards.
Teamwork Joker: Pay 2 points and target another player. If not successfully challenged, then any other player can pay 3 points, and the target discards. If no other player pays, the action fails. Cannot be blocked unless another player pays.
Sunday, July 2, 2017
Reimagining the D&D Economy
In D&D, there is a global economy shared by all nations with a unified currency of standard value based on (and for one coin, made of) gold. The coins are of standard size, weight, and value in all nations, with minting being used as a way of devaluing the economies of other nations while overvaluing your own, through the prejudice of salespeople alone.
The weirdness of all this got me thinking. At first, I was just concerned with how such a system was formed and sustained. That was solved fast: in my settings, dwarves invented the first currency based economy and basically forced everyone else to use it in order to trade with them at all. The mountainhomes are all connected by the deep roads, linking dwarves settlements and ruins around the globe. Because everyone has to trade with dwarves, everyone is making the same currency, so they might as well use it with each other too. While nations use minting of coins to engage in economic warfare, dwarves wouldnt give a crap, gold is gold, and if you shape youre coins right, they are symbolically worth it. If you don't want one of the coins they use in a deal with you because it has an enemy's mark on it, they're happy to squash it smooth for you. Simple done. The dwarves are basically the hub of the global economy. It does not exist naturally, and is sustained by their arrogance and stubbornness alone.
But then I started to wonder. Imagine, for a second, that we used the Gygaxian currency, based on fractions of gold weight, in our modern society? How would the prices of things look?
Right Now, a pound of gold is worth 19,892.8 USD. Let's call that 20,000$.
A gold piece is worth its weight in gold, literally: 0.1lb, which comes out to 2,000$. Holy shit. If you're paying for something in gold pieces, that ain't no joke!
Silver pieces are worth 1/10th of the value of a gold coin, so they have the same value as 1/100th of a pound of gold, or 200$
And, if you haven't seen the pattern, a copper piece comes to 20$.
Oh, and platinum pieces, representing 10 gold pieces, would have the same value as a 1lb gold bar- 20,000$ worth of stuff. If you're paying in platinum pieces, you're making one of those major life purchases, like the down-payment on a house, or a brand new sports car.
Wowzers. The world would certainly be strange! For one thing, we almost certainly would have either expanded the coin range, or reduced the weight value of the non-gold coins. We would need coins to represent 1/10,000th and 1/100,000th the value of a 1lb gold bar, otherwise our economy would be outrageously inefficient due to value loss on lower value items!
But D&D isn't modern, it's medieval. And 5th edition is dark-ages, with technology and global populations matching the time just after Justinian's plague cut the world population in half. Let's see what some of those items are worth relative to what we value a pound of gold in reality...
Shortsword: 20,000$ (Same price as a shield)
Plate Armor: 3,000,000$
Shortbow: 50,000$ (that is also the value of a BOOK.)
A bundle of 20 arrows is worth 1gp, or 2,000$, so that works out to 100$ an arrow.
A mine's pick is 4,000$.
An ink pen is 40$! A single vial of ink to write with it will run you the same cost as a sword or shield!
A flask of oil comes to 200$.
A magnifying glass is worth a staggering 2,000,000$!!!!
Bagpipes cost 60,000$.
Riding horses are 150,000$, and a warhorse comes to 800,000$.
The most expensive item in the PHB, a galley, comes to 60,000,000$.
But all is not lost! The people are also paid in this currency! What kinds of wages would we have?
People in D&D get paid a daily wage, not an hourly one. There are two standards of pay, aside from bounties: unskilled and skilled. Unskilled is anything you need no external training for. Burger flippers, delivery boys, shelf stockers, cashiers, general laborers, etc. Skilled is anything you need special training for, including what we would call professionals, so that would be lawyers, soldiers, doctors, police, bankers, geneticists, barber's, taxi drivers, welders, etc. Anything that demands a license or certificate.
So, entry-level teens get 2 silvers a day, or 400$. That's 32$ an hour, guaranteed, every day they work.
Professionals? They get 4,000$ a day. They get paid 500$ per hour.
A modest lifestyle costs you 2000$ a day, so unskilled workers will still be living in cramped apartments with multiple room mates. However, if you manage to get hold of a professional license, you literally have a golden ticket to permanent comfort and economic safety. Saving 1000$ a day, you could buy a riding horse in about 5 months. That's the medieval equivalent of getting a car- a car you can breed with other cars to get new cars for free- a car you can eat if the winter gets too cold and you run out of food. That's not bad!
So, what would it take for someone to become an adventurer? I'm going to say a sword and shield are all that is required, bare minimum. At 40,000$, a professional of any stripe can afford to become an adventurer after a little more than a month. Unskilled workers, if they lived a truly crummy lifestyle while saving, could do it in half a year.
On the other hand, the least you could pay for a burger is 20$.
The weirdness of all this got me thinking. At first, I was just concerned with how such a system was formed and sustained. That was solved fast: in my settings, dwarves invented the first currency based economy and basically forced everyone else to use it in order to trade with them at all. The mountainhomes are all connected by the deep roads, linking dwarves settlements and ruins around the globe. Because everyone has to trade with dwarves, everyone is making the same currency, so they might as well use it with each other too. While nations use minting of coins to engage in economic warfare, dwarves wouldnt give a crap, gold is gold, and if you shape youre coins right, they are symbolically worth it. If you don't want one of the coins they use in a deal with you because it has an enemy's mark on it, they're happy to squash it smooth for you. Simple done. The dwarves are basically the hub of the global economy. It does not exist naturally, and is sustained by their arrogance and stubbornness alone.
But then I started to wonder. Imagine, for a second, that we used the Gygaxian currency, based on fractions of gold weight, in our modern society? How would the prices of things look?
Right Now, a pound of gold is worth 19,892.8 USD. Let's call that 20,000$.
A gold piece is worth its weight in gold, literally: 0.1lb, which comes out to 2,000$. Holy shit. If you're paying for something in gold pieces, that ain't no joke!
Silver pieces are worth 1/10th of the value of a gold coin, so they have the same value as 1/100th of a pound of gold, or 200$
And, if you haven't seen the pattern, a copper piece comes to 20$.
Oh, and platinum pieces, representing 10 gold pieces, would have the same value as a 1lb gold bar- 20,000$ worth of stuff. If you're paying in platinum pieces, you're making one of those major life purchases, like the down-payment on a house, or a brand new sports car.
Wowzers. The world would certainly be strange! For one thing, we almost certainly would have either expanded the coin range, or reduced the weight value of the non-gold coins. We would need coins to represent 1/10,000th and 1/100,000th the value of a 1lb gold bar, otherwise our economy would be outrageously inefficient due to value loss on lower value items!
But D&D isn't modern, it's medieval. And 5th edition is dark-ages, with technology and global populations matching the time just after Justinian's plague cut the world population in half. Let's see what some of those items are worth relative to what we value a pound of gold in reality...
Shortsword: 20,000$ (Same price as a shield)
Plate Armor: 3,000,000$
Shortbow: 50,000$ (that is also the value of a BOOK.)
A bundle of 20 arrows is worth 1gp, or 2,000$, so that works out to 100$ an arrow.
A mine's pick is 4,000$.
An ink pen is 40$! A single vial of ink to write with it will run you the same cost as a sword or shield!
A flask of oil comes to 200$.
A magnifying glass is worth a staggering 2,000,000$!!!!
Bagpipes cost 60,000$.
Riding horses are 150,000$, and a warhorse comes to 800,000$.
The most expensive item in the PHB, a galley, comes to 60,000,000$.
But all is not lost! The people are also paid in this currency! What kinds of wages would we have?
People in D&D get paid a daily wage, not an hourly one. There are two standards of pay, aside from bounties: unskilled and skilled. Unskilled is anything you need no external training for. Burger flippers, delivery boys, shelf stockers, cashiers, general laborers, etc. Skilled is anything you need special training for, including what we would call professionals, so that would be lawyers, soldiers, doctors, police, bankers, geneticists, barber's, taxi drivers, welders, etc. Anything that demands a license or certificate.
So, entry-level teens get 2 silvers a day, or 400$. That's 32$ an hour, guaranteed, every day they work.
Professionals? They get 4,000$ a day. They get paid 500$ per hour.
A modest lifestyle costs you 2000$ a day, so unskilled workers will still be living in cramped apartments with multiple room mates. However, if you manage to get hold of a professional license, you literally have a golden ticket to permanent comfort and economic safety. Saving 1000$ a day, you could buy a riding horse in about 5 months. That's the medieval equivalent of getting a car- a car you can breed with other cars to get new cars for free- a car you can eat if the winter gets too cold and you run out of food. That's not bad!
So, what would it take for someone to become an adventurer? I'm going to say a sword and shield are all that is required, bare minimum. At 40,000$, a professional of any stripe can afford to become an adventurer after a little more than a month. Unskilled workers, if they lived a truly crummy lifestyle while saving, could do it in half a year.
On the other hand, the least you could pay for a burger is 20$.
Saturday, July 1, 2017
On the Gygaxian Coin
In the original D&D product line, Gygax decided gold coins weigh 1/10th of a pound. He did this to make it easy for himself to calculate treasure weight for encumbrance rules. Basically, he was being lazy. The story gets weird though. Gygax liked this so much, he decided to measure the weight of everything in the game in coins. This is simply bizarre for a multitude of reasons, but mainly because 0.1lb doesn't match up with any other extant measuring system. It brought extra attention to the unusual coin weight.
The Gygaxian Coin has gotten a lot of criticism because of its weight though, with people poking fun at the thought of dinner plate sized gold coins. Now, I'll agree, a tenth-pound of copper or silver will indeed make coins in the 5 to 6 inch diameter range, no doubt. But gold is damn heavy. Excuse me while I pull out my ultrasonics text book and do some volume calculations based on material. Let's see just how big these would be.
1lb. of gold has a volume of ~25 cubic centimeters. So 1/10th of that has a volume of 2.5ccs. That's not much! Ok, let's say a Gygaxian Coin has 2mm thickness, same as a Canadian loonie. We now have 3 of the 4 values needed to calculate volume, we just need diameter. Luckily, the calculation for cylindrical volume is straightforward, and we just need the first value, so we can just reverse the calculation. I'll just plug this into math calcumalator...
At 2mm thickness. A 1/10th pound Gygaxian gold coin is 4cm across. About 2 Canadian loonies across, or about an inch and a half, around the size of a poker chip. That means the 1/50th pound coins in 5e are actually thin little wafers of gold, barely even coins, and probably quite easily damaged.
It also means you could literally spray paint poker chips gold and have to-scale accurate coin props.
As for coppers and silvers, they have about half the density of gold, so they'd have to be twice the volume. The easiest way to do that is to double the thickness to 4mm. That is one big, heavy, crude, primitive type of coin. It'd be more like a miniature precious metal bar than a coin. Platinum on the other hand is actually more dense than gold, but not by much, so those coins would be about the same size as the gold pieces.
Edit:
I made one. Sans minting, this is what a Gygaxian tenth-pound gold piece would look like.
The Gygaxian Coin has gotten a lot of criticism because of its weight though, with people poking fun at the thought of dinner plate sized gold coins. Now, I'll agree, a tenth-pound of copper or silver will indeed make coins in the 5 to 6 inch diameter range, no doubt. But gold is damn heavy. Excuse me while I pull out my ultrasonics text book and do some volume calculations based on material. Let's see just how big these would be.
1lb. of gold has a volume of ~25 cubic centimeters. So 1/10th of that has a volume of 2.5ccs. That's not much! Ok, let's say a Gygaxian Coin has 2mm thickness, same as a Canadian loonie. We now have 3 of the 4 values needed to calculate volume, we just need diameter. Luckily, the calculation for cylindrical volume is straightforward, and we just need the first value, so we can just reverse the calculation. I'll just plug this into math calcumalator...
At 2mm thickness. A 1/10th pound Gygaxian gold coin is 4cm across. About 2 Canadian loonies across, or about an inch and a half, around the size of a poker chip. That means the 1/50th pound coins in 5e are actually thin little wafers of gold, barely even coins, and probably quite easily damaged.
It also means you could literally spray paint poker chips gold and have to-scale accurate coin props.
As for coppers and silvers, they have about half the density of gold, so they'd have to be twice the volume. The easiest way to do that is to double the thickness to 4mm. That is one big, heavy, crude, primitive type of coin. It'd be more like a miniature precious metal bar than a coin. Platinum on the other hand is actually more dense than gold, but not by much, so those coins would be about the same size as the gold pieces.
Edit:
I made one. Sans minting, this is what a Gygaxian tenth-pound gold piece would look like.
Thursday, March 30, 2017
D&D Hub
Where I'm Coming From
OK, so I'm a big-time fan of the online D&D community. Not just one piece of it, I mean the WHOLE thing. My online presence consists of...
I'm an administrator on dandwiki.com.
I'm friendly with the administrators at dnd-wiki.org.
I run a gaming blog which spends a lot of time on D&D, and have even interacted with other blog-based homebrewers, like James Musicus. (Creator of the Musicus system for calculating 5e racial trait balance)
I have a Dungeon Masters Guild account and have submitted and reviewed content.
I've had a brief chat with the creator of The Homebrewery after the software began to fail around 218 pages of writing.
I'm an active redditor and subscribe to the following subreddits:
/R/ADVENTURERSLEAGUE
/R/ASKGAMEMASTERS
/R/BEHINDTHETABLES
/R/CHARACTERDRAWING
/R/CHARACTERPROMPT
/R/DMACADEMY
/R/DMTOOLKIT
/R/DND
/R/DNDBEHINDTHESCREEN
/R/DNDNEXT
/R/DUNGEONPROMPT
/R/DUNGEONSANDDRAGONS
/R/FANTASY
/R/GAMING
/R/HEROFORGEMINIS
/R/IMAGINARYTAVERNS
/R/LFG
/R/LOREMASTERS
/R/RPG
/R/TABLETOPMASTERS
/R/UNEARTHEDARCANA
/R/WORLDBUILDING
/R/WORLDPROMPTS
I'm active on RPG Stack Exchange and frequently ask and answer questions relating to D&D and other games I understand.
I have an EN World forum account and spend some time on the D&D forum. I have also shared my homebrew content through their uploads service.
I have an RPG.com account and spend time on their D&D board.
I have a Gaming Den account, but I'll admit I only lurk. Those people scare me.
I hang out on 7chan/tg/ and 4chan/tg/
I even browse Giant ITP when I feel nostalgic!
I am an active member on D&D Beyond. (A service provided by WotC which is currently in open beta)
I've been around and am around, a'ight?
The Problems
OK, so the issue I see with all of this activity is that most of it acts like an island. Sure, there's some random overlap between user base of the communities, but the creative output of each community is often land-locked and otherwise inaccessible.
Some of these communities have no effective archival system, making it frustrating to try and go back to find old creations.
Some of these communities, for whatever reason, don't like each other much, and so do not communicate well.
Some of these communities, due to their relative isolation, are redundantly providing duplicate services or products.
We are fragmented, disorganized, divided... inefficient.
My Idea
I want to make a news aggregating website that will unify the online D&D gaming communities. I want to maximize the mobility of everything that is good from each community, to try and spread the awesome as far as possible.
My initial thought is a blog, where I find "reporters" from each of the major groups and give them limited access to post regular reports of cool stuff. Maybe go to producers like Matt or BaBGM and just give them direct access to promote their work.
However, such a blog would rapidly become unnavigable.
Then I thought maybe a wiki with a main page that shows the most recent reports, and separate pages that show a history of each reporting line, accompanied by pages which sort past reports by content.
But a wiki is rather difficult to control, it is anarchic and disorganized by nature, and runs the risk of becoming a community in its own right. I don't want to make a new community, I just want to facilitate the expansion of user base overlap between a large group of related communities.
So whatever I do, I'd have to write it from scratch and find a cheap server to host the thing. At its best, the D&D Hub should be a conduit connecting as many minds as possible. I don't want a computer just dumping links to most active topics. I want real minds sharing what they love most about their community with the world.
I'd also like a section which reports news from major services and products, like WotC, Fantasy Grounds, etc, and a section dedicated to accumulating links to awesome online resources.
Preferably, it should be something extremely minimal and simple.
Well, I'm going to post a link to this on all the communities I frequent and see what people have to say. If nothing else, I know I'll need help to do this. I cannot actually be everywhere at once.
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